South Africa and Mozambique Christmas 2007/08

Left home on Jan 18 got to Durban on the 19th. Spent the 20th at St Augustine Hospital in
Durban with Debbie, my sister-in-law.... My knee blew up on the plane….I.went to the trauma unit, spent time waiting, paid cubicle fee then saw a trauma doctor. He sent me to the Rheumatologist, a lovely Indian woman who squeezed me in and drained my knee and gave me some medication. She was very knowledgeable, knew all about the meds I was taking and actually had a sonogram machine on her examining table where she looked for the fluid in both my knees and put the needle exactly where they needed to be drained. We rented a Land Rover Discovery 3 Diesel. Diesel is easy to find and we have been getting great gas mileage. Went to Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park Game Reserve (bookings@kznwildlife.com or +27 33 845 1999) for 2 nights. 2 hours north of Durban. Hluhluwe is situated in Northern Zululand, which is 280 km north of Durban. It was established in 1895 and is the oldest game reserve in Africa. This reserve, together with the Corridor and Imfolozi game reserves is managed as one protected area of approximately 96,000 hectares. An important thing to keep in mind is that the Game Reserves close and lock their gates at a certain time. Mtubatuba exit off of the N2 will take you into the South Entrance of the game reserve.

By the time that I got out of the Dr. we raced up to Hluhluwe (3 hour drive) we got there at 6:45 pm and they lock the gates at 7pm. There is really no alternate place to stay---if you are late you need to go all of the way back. If you are running late and coming from Durban make sure that you take the south entrance as it is more accessible. We booked a cabin at Hilltop Camp, which had 2 bedrooms, kitchen, patio etc. and it was R550 per night per person which is about $80 US per person. Remember in South Africa that all prices include VAT. Breakfast or dinner is not included. We spent 2 nights there-at Hilltop. The first night we had dinner, relaxed, Ron and I drank a great bottle of Chardonnay. Need to keep patio doors closed as monkeys will come in. Instead of screens they have hard netting, chicken wire across the windows to keep the monkeys out from attacking your fruit! Booked the game drive for 5am the next morning---Chris sweet-talked our way into the reception. We were in a Land Cruiser with Beki, our Zulu giide. He had a strong accent and spoke very fast as he said he had the stutters! Dress warm, as it is cool-layer when the sun comes up it will get warm. Bring a great camera with a good lens. Saw elephant, giraffe, lion, buck, Halfway through the drive, with the sun rising gently over the African plains and casting a pinkish shadow over the Acacia trees, Beki stopped the Land Rover. He climbed out and on the back of the vehicle set up breakfast….a big thermos of coffee, classic tin mugs, and some rusks to eat for breakfast. Rusks were traditional Afrikaner food from when the Boers used to cross the mountains- essentially dried bread that you dip into coffee or tea. We were huddled around this lovely sight having breakfast when Ron suddenly said ‘oh look, a Rhino.” We turned around and within 2 arm lengths was a White Rhino who had crossed the road grazing and came upon us. Needless to say it quickened some heart ratses.. That afternoon Chris took the Land Rover that we had rented and did just what you’re not supposed to do----he took my brother and sister and they went off-road, past the Do Not Enter signs and did their own tour. Saw an elephant up close ready to charge which gave Chris a fright. That night we did a night drive at 5pm through the sunset. Beki had a big flashlight which he used to light our way. We came upon some spotted hyena—ugly things. Their jaws can actually go through bone.

We left there and headed over to St Lucia Wetland Park, which is actually a a World Heritage Site (www.stluciasa.co.za). This area was declared as South Africa’s first Natural World Heritage Site by UNESCO. This area touches the Western Indian Ocean’s waters. We booked the St Lucia Advantage Hippo and Croc boat tour (actually a small ferry): This cost us R130 per person for a boat ride up the St Lucia estuary. www.advantagetours.co.za. There are 3 daily departure times. Call ahead so that you don’t get shut out as this is an amazing tour. Besides hippos and crocodiles we saw St Lucia Area, again you just head up the N2 going North from Durban…..eagles, kingfisher birds and a variety of beautiful plant life. We came right up on groups of hippos, including mother with baby hippos….the most dangerous animal in Africa in numbers of humans killed. Appearing docile and cute, although they are plant eaters they can be deadly if provoked. Most times people come upon the hippo accidentally. They had hippo teeth to show us on the boat and they are very sharp. Also, at the North end of St Lucia lies Sodwana Bay, which has some of the most amazing (and protected) diving and reefs in South Africa. To get to the

South African Airlines lost Chris' bags…..every time he comes he loses his bag but hasn’t lost contents. He had insurance though Amex which he always gets---gets $500 each time. Kennedy forgot to load his bag onto the container.

The night of the 22 we went back to Debbie’s house in Morningside and had dinner at Moya Restaurant at the Waterfront in Durban. Moya is a fantastic restaurant, mostly locals with a lounge feel, beach breezes, very trendy yet very traditional Zulu restaurant. Servers in traditional costumes will get up and sing, and they will come by and paint your face………believe me although this sounds like a Tourist Trap, it definitely isn’t. Even the gift and curio shop adjacent to the restaurant shouldn’t put you off. It is located near Shakaland which is an entertainment area on the waterfront.

A traditional Durban dish is called Bunny Chow. Take a loaf of traditional white bread, hollow it out and put curry inside. Take the top of the bread and use to eat the curry, eating away at the white inside.

On December 23 we have a black hole---can’t remember what we did!!!

On the 24th we had lunch at the Pot and Kettle in the Valley of 1000 Hills near Durban. Great views of the valley. Casual, outdoor restaurant. Curio shops with an artist who is showcased at the Beverly Hills Hotel. Celebrated Mari Noel’s birthday there.
That night we had dinner at Debbie’s house…steak, chicken, lots of great wine and fun. Debs, Noel and I shopped at Checkers and Woolworth’s for groceries to take to the farm. Chris took me to RBS Motorsports in Durban/Pinetown. We were going to the farm the next day and he bought me my dirt bike!!
The farm is in the Griqualand Province in the Swartkop Mounatains—part of the Southern Drakensburg Mountain range. Pass through the town of Underberg which is 2 hours from Durban. Bought 250 hectares of land with 5 other couples. Yamaha WR 230F
Small koppies (hills) around the farm. Otter in the dam, also has a wetland area that the previous owner made. Has river running through it-60 hectare enclosure on the property that has a 10 foot high electric fence. About 12 buck Reed buck, blesboek, duiker-small, skittish and hard to find.….3 species of buck on the farm.

Dec 26 got to the farm, unloaded, went to the farm, chilled out watched a movie.
On the 27th we took the Landy and went up Thule Pass. Up the mountain and to the Lesotho Border post. Rustler’s pass…access to the top of the mountain. When people steal cattle they can go up Thule Pass to Lesotho and get the cattle. Super steep, rocky—man made trail/pass up the side of the mountain range. Very narrow made by the locals. Bush path through the side of the mountain. Land Rover Discovery 3 Diesel. Rented from McCarthy Land Rover of Durban www.mccarth.co.za, tel (031)314-5555 . Raised up the suspension, put the vehicle into “Mud and Ruts” mode and low range drive and up we went. Top of Thule Pass then Chris wanted to go up one more hill! Very steep!
Then in the afternoon we climbed on the bikes and went riding again. That night Chris and I rode the bikes down to the dam and a reed buck was just staring at us. Not behind the face, we could see his brown face and body right in front of us. Then the otter was playfully spinning and playing in the dam.
Sat at the St Bernard’s Peak and went to the pub for drinks. Sat in a big semicircle and it was Mari, Chris and myself…after a few drinks we decided it was Mary-Chris-Mis. Funny what a little alcohol can do. watched the sunset. Chilled out. The following morning Chis, Clint and the boys went to do a new ride, were super late and held everyone up. Got back around 1:30 or so. Then we did a ride to the river to have a picnic. Brought chairs, put in a semicircle under a tree, the guys got wine, champagne, real glasses and beer. The boys swam in the river and got leeches, dropped trou. Rode to the dam on the bikes, Shaz was on the back of Chris bike legs flapping, Noel was on the back of Clinton’s bike, it was a great respite hanging by the dam.

29 we came back in the am dropped Mari and Ron off at the airport, went to Debs, had dinner at the Beverly Hills Hotel in Umhlanga. They have a bar/restaurant there that is super cool, very similar to the Delano, all in white, lounge-y, super hip. Upstairs is a restaurant called The Sugar Club, with jazz music and views of the sea.

30th we left for the Pont. The Pont is on the old border of Natal and Transkei at a town called Port Edward. The Old Pont originated there wasn’t a bridge so they had a pont a riverboat which transported cars etc across the river to the Transkei which was actually a different country you needed a passport. It is a big gorge on the Umtumvuna River which feeds into the ocean. There is a protected area on the river west of the camping area with a no wake zone and goes to Leopard Beach. It is now a camping/RV park where Clinton has his house-tent. Camping, tents along the riverbank. All of a sudden big ruckus there was a green mamba very poisonous snake in a tree poised up above the tent. Floods of testosoterone as the guys decided who would get rid of the snake. Guys got the pool nets and Nick emerged as the Crococile Dundee of the day when he was able to scoop up the snake and put it into the river where it proceeded to swim away.31 fireeworks on the Riverbank only legal 4 days of the year. Hung out, dinner, went to the Pub and they had a tent with great music and the bored, falling-asleep DJ who played GREAT music. We danced, did shots of Jose Cuervo and at 12 they had 3 guys waterskiing behind a boat naked carrying flares. Like nothing I have ever seen…NO PHOTOS>… hard as the guys were not buoyant and so it is hard to float, get up on your skis, etc.

Jan 1 woke up late—tubing, waterskiing, his friend Dylan and I Gareth was doing net-casting caught a fish called a Toby ugly white fish which blows up like a tennis ball.

Jan 2 Clint took the Jet Ski out to sea where Clint was riding along with the Whale Sharks. The mouth of the Whale Shark is as wide as the double jet ski. These sharks are harmless, and will not do any thing to you. Right there at the mouth of the Pont.

Jan 3 Thursday went to Downtown Durban to the Mozambique Embassy at 320 West Street. It was closed until January 7 but a sign in the window says that I can get the Visa at the border. Let’s keep our fingers crossed. There was a hair salon called Kinky Hair. We laughed and took Chris’ picture underneath it (more to follow…). Then I got my hair colored at the Mall at Rolf –ask for Janine. Dinner that night at Chez Nous in Durban.
Showed Debbie the picture of Chris in front of Kinky and Debs said “you’re not going to belive it but I had hair extensions there awhile back---I ended up looking like Barbie!” They glued the hair on with Kinky Glue and you had to take it off with Kinky Oil. Too funny.

Today, Jan 4, Friday we are on our way to Mozambique. We elected not to take the Malaria pills which was either brave or stupid. We did get some Tabard Spray which everyone recommended, and apparently Jann’s house is air-conditioned and has mosquito netting in the bedrooms so we are going to take a chance. We needed to start the meds for a few days before we went which we didn’t do so we will see…..heading up to Janns cottage on the N2 stopped at Wimpy for lunch.

Stopped at a great curio shop which we went to a few years ago called Ilala Weavers, upcale artist/artisan goods. It is near Sodwana Bay/Hluhluwe www.ilala.co.za